Kanazawa

At our brief, overnight stay in Kanazawa, we visited the city’s highlight, the famous Kenrokuen Garden, rated as the third most beautiful garden in Japan. How such a thing is determined is a bit beyond me, even our guide in Miyajima laughs about the Japanese proclivity towards ranking everything—three best Shinto Shrines, the three famous Buddhas, the three hidden regions. Having said that, it was easy to see understand why this garden is rated so highly. Everywhere you turn, every vantage point can be wrapped in a picture frame. Unfortunately, my hopes at finding a tranquil spot to meditate were dashed as we got within a few hundred metres of the park: free Sunday admission during Cherry Blossom season. Imagine a quiet crowd at the Exhibition. Well, something like that, but with more high heels. Even so, the garden was as magnificent as the weather.

Pine tree older than confederation

This gives me a few ideas about our Scots pine in the backyard

On a Sunday stroll

It was a hot day

Traditional ladies enjoying the afternoon

Snacks

Takayama

This small city, just outside the “Japanese Alps”, was a significant change from Tokyo. What I will remember about it are the backdrop of magnificent mountains, Ruth interpreting for John with an antiques dealer, and the Hida beef, a rival to the famous Kobe beef.

Tea growing

Unlucky fortunes let go in the wind

Will, this one is for you. Can you guess what it is?

A giant rice cracker.


We were finally able to figure out how to use this machine.

Inside a traditional house by the hearth

Display of Autumn Festival Floats

18th-century float

Ruthie the Brave

Dressed in our Yukatas

Red bean candy

On our way to the next stop

Until next time,

Love

Grace

Our next destination is Kyoto, where I hope to have a better internet connection. Still lots to show. G.

Shirakawa-go

After a short, but steep, trek up a hill, we were rewarded with the spectacular view of Shirakawa-go, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995. The thatched 3- and 4-story buildings, called Gasshos, date back to the 18th century, and were house, barn, and locale for raising silkworms. They relied on a constant supply of smoke to maintain the building’s structure, while also fumigating against noxious insects. The effect produced a rich black patina to the interior. A new highway, cut through the mountains, has greatly increased access to this magnificent village, where tourism has replaced farming and silkworm production. Having toured the impressive but drafty Gasshos in the museum village, you can understand why modern living has changed local life.

Our accommodation at a private residence was billed as somewhat primitive, but it turned out to be comfortable and included the ubiquitous modern toilet. (Normally, I wouldn’t talk about such an indelicate subject, but it’s something that I’ll miss when I get back home. They come with a warmed seat, and variety of bidet selections. And a blow dryer. Ladies may also select fake flushing noises for those embarrassing moments.) Supper was delicious, but just like at home, everyone watched the TV news while eating. Not sure what Kim Jong-Il was saying, but it drew the attention of the Japanese guests.

The view on many postcards

Shirakawa-go Gassho manhole cover

This one's for you Dad!

This is the Shirakawa-go version of the back-40. This is a rice field in fallow before the June seeding.

Stacks of pampas grass used for the thatched roofs.

The irrigation system runs throughout the village in open channels.

A Shirakawa-go street

Lodgepoles at Banff?

No, not really. This was only a 100 m foot path, but these Norfolk pine were magnificent. Remember the Norfolk Pine? You'll likely find them in your living room in a pot at home.

Where else but Japan can you take a picture of snowy mountains and palm trees at the same time?

The natural way of keeping your Coke cooled.

The gasshos require re-thatching every 30 years.

A Shinto shine gate, gassho style

A view of a house similar to where we stayed

This was taken through a chink in the rice-paper window.




View from the look-out point

Tokyo - Not Temples and Cherry Blossoms

Tokyo isn't all temples and cherry blossoms. The buildings, by big-city standards, aren't all that tall, which allows for some very cool architecture. Like so much of Japan, where what you see is important, the buildings are works of art all by themselves. Here are some glimpses of just a few.

Tres cool.

This one is home to a design school--I think.

Home of a beer company

Young workers removing gum from in front of a high-end department store.

Along the Sumida River

This gives you an Alice-in-Wonderland feeling. The watch, as you can see, is a couple of stories high.

Night time transforms everything.

We're off to Takayama this morning, to a more traditional perspective of the country.

More later...

Grace